June 6, 2024
Reykjavik, Iceland
It's cold outside! Earlier today, I was in the airport warming station, wearing everything I owned with my empty backpack on my head to shield me from the wind. I was waiting for a tour bus that would whisk me off to The Blue Lagoon where I would be greeted with a warm fluffy terry cloth robe and slippers that I wore before slipping into the natural giant hot spring with seaweed face masks and fresh carrot ginger juice (both from swim-up bars). My flight got in at 5:30 am and by 9:00 that morning, I was floating under a waterfall, watching a volcano spew massive amounts of hot lava, and sipping a local glass of wine. After two hours of relaxing bliss, I dressed, grabbed a gorgeous salad made of greens from the greenhouse outside, and made my way to the next tour bus to visit a geothermal energy station.
Iceland, the leader in renewable energy, has found a way to harness power from its 200 volcanoes and hot water below the earth's surface to heat icy roads, homes, and greenhouses (for my yummy lunch) in both rural areas and small villages alike, providing 70% of Iceland's power! And they still manage to sell 80% of its energy to aluminum companies and others trying to get their hands on renewable energy. Inside a dome shaped energy station, I witnessed the harnessing of geothermal power. It was one of several buildings that, when collectively gathered, can generate 755 MW in geothermal power and 30 % of the country's hydroelectricity! Say what!?! I will say that there are places in Iceland look... not very picturesque. Fields of black lava mixed with pipes and drill machinery, can feel desolate. But it beats tearing apart a mountainside for fossil fuels. I found out from 2 fifth graders (sitting next to me on the bus) that because more people are living in Iceland, the change in rainfall patterns, and the effects of global warming, Iceland is rethinking future solutions to energy. We were having fun brainstorming lists of crazy and pretty creative ways. Did I mention these folks were in 5th grade? They had their skateboards in hand and were headed to an after-school class held at a UNESCO site, on their own, skating their way through complex problems, and taking time to chat about it with a stranger on a bus. Iceland is not just taking care of the earth; they are caring for their capable future.
To top off the day, we stopped at Laugarvatn Fontana to eat rye bread baked in a volcano. A VOLCANO oven! Then, the bus dropped each of us off at our hotels where I warmed up by taking a shower (a 6 foot by 6-foot box with: toilet, sink and shower... all in one). Warm and rested, I embarked outside to find my favorite Icelandic cafe, Loki! I can't say enough good about this place, and conveniently located next to my hotel, I decided "when in Rome"... and ordered fermented shark. I barely managed to choke it down with a glass of Brennivin (which I am certain is straight alcohol). Then, I went for the most exquisite smoked trout and rye bread tarte. Not only was it a work of art (it pained me but did not stop me from diving in), but it was delicious, with the salmon melting in my mouth. To top off this exquisite meal, I had rye bread ice cream with rhubarb syrup on top. Mmmmmm, delicious.
I followed that street, past the rainbow crosswalk and pride flag avenue, down to the ocean where I peeked into a corner bar, Hus Mals og Menningar. I was heartily greeted by the bartender and strangers in the room. I ordered a coke and found my way to the basement with 25 chess tables and friendly players who were happy to play the girl who had no strategy to her game. This went on for a while until I got bored of losing and went upstairs to find people arm in arm singing and dancing to one of the greatest lead singers from The Bookstore band, who happened to be hilarious, too! Brandi Carlisle and John Denver, you now have competition. I could have stayed all night were it not for the winding stairs that called me to the loft. There I found rows and rows of books about local folklore. I took two books off the shelf and found a chair to snuggle in. I may have drifted off while reading about a witch who ate children. When I woke, I was worried about having to find my way back to the hotel in the dark. But guess what!?! I had no need to worry, 2 am is equally bright as 2 pm and the streets were full of folks heading home with a grin on their face. In Iceland, I feel like family and that I have place here. Could it be because they have dating sites built specifically to help you avoid dating a cousin? Maybe?!? But one thing I know for sure as I snuggle into bed, I have found my people!
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