June 1, 2024
Provincetown, MA
I got a flight from Salt Lake to Boston for just $150.00! The downside? Arrival: 5:00 am and Starbucks doesn't open until 6:30. That is 1 1/2 hours of zero charging, internet, or caffein while navigating Uber and the pier. Nevertheless, I am not deterred. I find a bench at the boat terminal and sleep until I hear the boarding call at 8:00. I find it remarkable- how easy it is for me to sleep anywhere with shingles! Refreshed and excited for the 1 1/2 hour boat ride to Provincetown, MA. I find myself surrounded by delightful people, all excited about the day ahead. I was the first in line (as it turns out the line started on the bench I was sleeping on) which meant I got the pick of seats. I headed for the least popular seat, outside, on the front of the boat. Everyone else shuffled past but a spunky gal tossed her backpack next to mine and sat down. "Looks like were the only ones crazy enough to sit here" she laughed as she pulled her coat out of her backpack. "Must be" I said as I joined her. Coats on, we exchanged initial pleasantries until I blurted out... " I'm so excited!" I said. "Me to!" She admitted. I could tell Pam and I would be fast friends.
Pam had just turned 70 and was celebrating by finally taking her friend up on an outstanding offer for the last ten years to visit. It was the first time she had taken a day off in fifteen years. I asked her more questions about her job. She told me she was a fisherwoman, working down at the docks. She held her hands out for me to feel the callouses of her hands. I immediately knew I was holding real strength. I asked her what one thing she was hoping to see or find on her first trip in forever. She said that she wanted to find a chair, sit next to her friend and do nothing but close her eyes and soak up the sunshine. “She won't let me do that though”, she added. “She’ll have me making glass, going out to eat at restaurants, and going and going”. Then she asked me what I wanted to see, feel, or find on my trip. I noticed that she added the word “feel” to the question. I told her I wanted to see a dolphin, seal, or whale. Then she shared how she had worked with sea captains over the years to save the whales from commercial boats that hit and kill whale pods when steering their ship too close. When I asked more questions, she spoke of the despicable crimes whalers committed in sport, and her experience reaching out and sharing with them a better way to live in harmony with marine life. I saw her eyes soften. I suggested we just sit and soak up some sun. We were bundled up with layers to protect us from the fierce wind, but the sun was gentle and warm. We sat that way for a while, time escaping me, when suddenly I felt salty cold air spray my face. I opened my eyes to see an enormous humpback whale emerge from the water and look me straight in the eye. I froze; I could not move or speak. She was so close, perhaps 10 yards at the most, I could see the detail of her face and the barnacles who had hitched a ride. I truly thought for a moment that it must be a dream. I must have fallen asleep. There was no way for my brain to process her enormity, the raw beauty, and awe of her. I reached out to shake Pam, but she was gone. No one was anywhere to be seen, except for an older man holding a small child in his arms at the other end of the boat, also gawking. It continued this way for a minute or two, until she slowly disappeared back into the ocean. After a minute, opening the heavy door into the ship, I noticed a man on his phone, a mate moving about, children crying, but no one seemed fazed by the miracle that had just occurred. How could that be? I stumbled back through the door. I found my seat and along came Pam. I was still stunned without words. "I know" she said with a smile as she patted my hand. "I know". Then Pam sat back down and closed her eyes with the biggest smile I had seen. She spotted the Long Point lighthouse up ahead signaling land, Ho! As we disembarked, she pointed out the mural of women's faces who had immigrated from Poland and had settled as fisherman here. She told me not to miss the Portuguese bakery on Commercial Street, which I promised to do first thing. We walked along the MacMillan Pier until we got to Commercial Street and then hugged and said goodbye as she crawled into the seat of her friend's car. I'm not sure if Pam orchestrated the whale sighting. I'm keen to think that she did not as we were too close for the whale's comfort, but I am grateful to meet Pam today. She was right... the Portugese Pastel de Nata was to die for. And her friendship was just what I needed to start my journey on.
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